Saturday, January 28, 2006

The Art of Surfing

Since the purchase of RAW, it has been our hobby to go out and surf as much as possible as we have the perfect environment to do it in. After progressing to a point where I feel my skill is competent, I thought I would take this opportunity to explain this sport called surfing...


It begins on shore. You check out where the best waves are to catch and you make a b-line into the ocean and attempt to pass the break. This is no easy feet, as there are some days where the waves will push you back to shore along with the current. On other days its so bad that you will see a line of people similar to soldiers on a battle field that are about to engage in combat before being pelted back as the enemy does not welcome you.

If you do manage to paddle out to sea, your next challenge is to find the perfect wave amongst hundreds of other surfers who are all waiting for the same thing. Some may yell and some may just run you over if you are in their way but its survival of the fittest and only the strong will survive.
When that wave does come, it is then your job to paddle as hard as you can towards where you JUST came from (I know, why bother). The wave will eventually pick you up from underneath and you have less than a second to place both feet on top of the motioned board, stand up and turn the board towards where the wave has yet to break.

The effort is then rewarded with as little as 2 second to as long as 10 second adreline rush before having to go through it all again!

Is it all worth it?

You better believe it!

- the lone asian

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

<< Home